Mamma arrives! What happiness. My mother is undoubtedly and wholeheartedly one of the single best travel partners in the world. We agree that the best way to travel is to 1) eat, and 2) walk. A perfect pairing. I canalways count on her to meet me absolutely anywhere in the world.

We planned to meet in Lisbon, but befuddled the train station I would be arriving at. I, of course, assumed the only stop in Lisbon was the last. Silly me. She assumed, of course, that I would have looked up the hotel location (which I did) and the closest train station (which I didn’t). So alas, I didn’t find my curly-haired Mamma in her red coat on the platform. An hour and a half later, with my very confused taxi driver, we finally met in the hotel lobby at 10:30 pm. So out we ventured for a taste of Lisbon.

We arrived at Cafe Galeto, the only joint open in our neighborhood. A funky, wood-paneled interior with cheerful barmen. Instead of the fresh, rustic bread, olives and cheese I’ve come to expect as my appetizer, we found packaged crostini and pates. Bizarre and tasty – though I think we were willing to eat anything!


A thirst-quenching Super Bock, the light, drink-able national pilsner. Caldo verde, a traditional staple in Portugal: creamy, with shredded kale and potatoes in a salty, onion-y broth. I even found a piece of smoked chouriço! Very tasty and comforting.


Bacalhau! They love it here. Incredibly salty and meaty, crisp on top. Served over a bed of chard swimming in olive oil with baby potatoes, black olives and beet garnish.


After surviving on sandwiches for two days of travel, this is a welcome meal!


Tarte de Maçã ReinetaAn apple pie made with the Reineta variety, grown in Portugal. Slightly sweet, slightly tart. A perfectly acceptable finish.


The vibe. What a find for our first foray into Lisbon!


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